Archive | Where

Open arms and hot soup in Eastern Ukraine

In the city of Zaporizhzhia – the first major stop for refugees fleeing Mariupol and other war-torn towns in southeastern Ukraine – we met Nella, who became a local guide, bringing us to refugee centers and hospitals, opening doors around town. On our second visit, she greeted us with homemade Ukrainian perishke, savory donuts stuffed […]

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Breakfast with the Batallion

We headed out in the early hours to visit one of the newly liberated towns surrounding Kyiv. The area was one of the first targets of Russian forces in late February and early March as they tried to encircle the capital and take hold of some air fields. That advance was largely unsuccessful, and Ukrainian […]

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Food on the Ukrainian Frontline

It’s below freezing in the Ukrainian trenches, dug just a few hundred yards away from Russian-backed separatists. There’s regularly a ceasefire violation around here – sniperfire or mortar rounds shot at the troops wearing blue & yellow patches, the flag of Ukraine, on their shoulders. They run regular rotations into the trench to peer across […]

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Quick Snack: A Revelation in a bowl in Poland

When in Poland, there are three absolute must-eats. The first is obvious: pierogi. Thick dough wrapped around fillings like cabbage and onion, steak, potato and cheese, spinach, dried plum and apricot… then boiled or fried. Growing up we used to buy them in the frozen food section, pan-fry them with sliced kielbasa and onions, then […]

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Fuel for the Press Marathon in Kyiv

It was the most unusual press conference I’ve ever attended; and I’ve sat thru Vladimir Putin’s hours-long telecast, been part of press scrums on front steps and in the tails of planes and everything in between. But today Ukraine’s President Volodymyr Zelensky decided to address several hundred journalists, not all at once but in what […]

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