It was only May when I was here last, and there was such a thriving restaurant scene — real life going on amid the scuffles — that to see Donetsk now is a bit of a shock. There are estimates that 80% of the population have fled this area, and indeed, many of my friends from my last visit have … Read More
Feasting in Iraqi Kurdistan
Being invited into someone’s home when you’re on the road is always the most memorable meal of the trip. In Iraqi Kurdistan, on the road from Erbil to Kirkuk, a local leader had us over for lunch – a multi-course feast prepared by his wife and daughters, and laid out on the floormat by his sons. Kurdish — and Iraqi … Read More
Attention Mid-East Wanderers: Had Enough Hummus?
If so, there’s a chain of Asian restaurants scattered about the Persian Gulf that’s calling your name. Now I generally detest chains – get me to a mom & pop any day of the week – but sometimes you’re in a rush, sometimes you’re on a budget, and sometimes you just can’t eat any more damn mezze!! If that’s the … Read More
Exploring the Souk in Old Doha
The modern skyline of Doha, Qatar, is an otherworldly assortment of glass, steel and light; as flashy as Vegas and as incongruous in this swath of dessert as Tataouine. But just 10 minutes away are the low buildings, crowded streets, and windy roads of old Doha, including a charming souk, full of locals, tourists, and families into the late hours. … Read More
Not a War Zone: A New Take on Tradition in Nice
In Vieux Nice, there are dozens of places to order the classic menu: an appetizer, main, and dessert for a set price. There are also dozens of casual spots to dig into the Niçoise specialties: stuffed vegetables known as farcis, anchovy/onion pizza called pissaladiere; and socca, a chickpea flour pancake served simply, dusted only with black pepper. But at … Read More