Feasting in Iraqi Kurdistan

Being invited into someone’s home when you’re on the road is always the most memorable meal of the trip. In Iraqi Kurdistan, on the road from Erbil to Kirkuk, a local leader had us over for lunch – a multi-course feast prepared by his wife and daughters, and laid out on the floormat by his […]

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Exploring the Souk in Old Doha

The modern skyline of Doha, Qatar, is an otherworldly assortment of glass, steel and light; as flashy as Vegas and as incongruous in this swath of dessert as Tataouine. But just 10 minutes away are the low buildings, crowded streets, and windy roads of old Doha, including a charming souk, full of locals, tourists, and […]

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Not a War Zone: A New Take on Tradition in Nice

  In Vieux Nice, there are dozens of places to order the classic menu: an appetizer, main, and dessert for a set price. There are also dozens of casual spots to dig into the Niçoise specialties: stuffed vegetables known as farcis, anchovy/onion pizza called pissaladiere; and socca, a chickpea flour pancake served simply, dusted only […]

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Loft Cafe: Modern Dining in Old Donetsk

Tucked inside a nondescript glass office building, which is itself tucked between the Donbass Palace and Tequila Sushi Boom Boom – i.e. not terribly easy to find – Loft Cafe is perhaps the only restaurant in Donetsk that feels like a proper modern, hip eating establishment.  No weird Soviet kitsch, no ham sushi. The restaurant […]

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