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Hiwa’s Do-It-Yourself Dolma Recipe

On the road, a home-cooked meal is an absolute luxury: a respite from the impersonal hotels and convivial but antiseptic restaurants that greet us at the end of each day. In Northern Iraq, we were invited (hooray!) to Hiwa’s house for his casual take on a traditional Middle Eastern dish, dolma.  Now, I knew dolma only as stuffed grape leaves. […]

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Modern Meatballs and Delicious Dumplings in Istanbul

You can eat very, very well in Istanbul. Even with zero language skills, the point-and-nod method can get you amazing kebabs, shwarma, roast chestnuts, the donut-shaped pastry known as simit, and enough baklava to put you in a honey coma. And the street food scene has excellent company with a handful of modern restaurants serving […]

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